The "Z" is our first OC-1 to be conceived with the aid of a computer. Designed and developed by Jerry Montgomery, with input from myself as director, we developed her from Jerry's CAD drawing and calculations.

Jerry shaped the first plug and built various prototypes until we came up with the production "Z". We wanted her to be our fastest canoe on flat water without sacrificing the big water abilities. She's shorter than our V1-B and less bulky than our V1-A. She's super stable to keep up with current surfing and racing techniques used by the talented crowd in outrigger sport. We applied everything we've learned through all of our design and development years together.

The "Z" has been tested in the wind chop for some time now, and comes through with flying amas! She'll carve face and connect waves with the best.

The result is a set of shapes that beat all our previous canoes in California style waters. She glides on flats faster than any of our previous designs and faster than anything we've raced against yet. She has the most comfortable cockpit we've ever designed. Her low set footwells are better fitting and provide more balance control, allowing the legs to be used with less effort to keep the ama off the water, and to keep water out. The low set, deep dish seat is VERY comfortable and close to the water to allow a longer reach forward to lengthen the power zone of the stroke, and to provide fantastic stability and ama control.

The tip of her bow stem rises above her crown to prevent pearling in steep conditions without being too high. The first two feet of the stem sheds water quite fast, to keep water from traveling up the fore deck. She has a low profile from the side, to reduce windage and keep surface area and weight to a minimum. Optimum weight in comparison with my other canoes would be very light paddlers and people up to Lb.

Really light paddlers and those under pounds may find nothing faster in any water condition. She's simply unbelievable for paddlers under pounds. Light paddlers under will be able to handle Hawaiian style waters on their roughest day. Moderate sized paddlers between pounds will easily handle 4ft wind chop and go zoom-zoom on flats.

Paddlers above pounds will race really fast in light to moderate conditions. The aluminum "iako" outrigger arms attach to the main hull of the canoe via a receiving hole in the deck. They're fixed in place by depressing a "detent ball" on the side of the iako.

The "ama" outrigger pontoon can be adjusted close or far from the main hull by depressing the detent, sliding the iako to the next position and allowing the next ball to pop into place.

Length of ama on outrigger canoe?

Adjustments to the pitch of the ama and stability of the canoe can be made by moving the mounting knob, up or down the threaded rod risers on the ama deck. We can install bungees on the fore deck and aft deck or where ever you want them, and can place a kelp guard in front of the rudder. She has the HUKI adjustable response rudder system and can be rigged with the Moderate water or Extreme conditions ama, and large variety of rudders.

We also have a very nice Custom Vinyl Canvas Cover with full length zippers. Dimensions: 21' 10 " LOA, I have found the Huki V1-Z outrigger single canoe to be the most efficient, maneuverable and seaworthy craft I have ever had the pleasure to own. The workmanship and design are perfect. Thank you for creating such a fantastic boat.

Optical Carrier transmission rates

I am quite sure many more Floridians and East Coast paddlers would feel the same way Thanks very much for making such a spectacular boat.Introducing Kahele, a dynamic new OC1 design. The Kahele is designed for improved efficiency by eliminating length in the nose and tail of the canoe. The Kahele features an optimized waterline of about 19 feet. Kahele, meaning "to move", is easy to manage both on and off the water. Although appealing to lighter paddlers looking for less to move around, Kahele also stands out for paddlers of all sizes due to its revolutionary design.

It's compact, maneuverable size enables it to catch swell and jump over the bump in front with less effort. It also fits neatly in the trough between bumps so you don't get stuck and lose momentum. Johnny had an idea, as he watched canoes and analyzed footage, something stood out. In fact, in flat water, this extra surface area is out of the water and has no value at all.

And in the wind, it means more canoe gets pushed around with the additional surface area. This thought kicked off a chain reaction. Looking at the values and progress brought about by the Kahe Kai it was time to weigh out where to go next. Trimming the length, and adding volume in specific areas Johnny arrived at the revolutionary design, Kahele. Although perfect for flat water, the Kahele executes in downwind and rough water in a way that is changing how we understand downwind paddling performance.

It minimizes the front-to-back shifting on bumps. By omitting surface area and length we have essentially reduced the effect of friction and unwanted movement caused by waves, chop and moving water. The deck of the Kahele is designed for improved efficiency, with a low profile and aerodynamic shape.

An Introduction to OC1 Paddling

The Kahele features a plumb bow to cut sharply through the water. Featuring the popular carbon fiber footwell cover to keep the wind, sun, and water out.

This cover not only protects your feet from the elements, but at 8 lbs a gallon, prevents the buildup of 20 lbs of water that would otherwise pool in the footwell before draining out. The Kahele fits in most garages. It can also be shipped in a 20 ft container, making it cheaper and much easier to take with you on your next faraway adventure.

The Kahele also comes in the Pro Model at 16lbs. More info here. Mine is teal and platinum.The choice is yours. It is no longer about whether an algorithm is right or wrong, liberal or conservative. It is simply about what is right for you at the current moment. You no longer have to choose a brand based on your decompression algorithm preference All in a strong, lightweight titanium housing.

To add additional conservatism, you can also adjust the:. Because the Dual Algorithm allows you to adjust the algorithm basis and its conservatism, you can adjust to closely match just about any other dive computer on the market, allowing you and any buddy to always dive in sync. Diving the same profile increases safety for both divers, and eliminates the need for one person to conduct a much longer or deeper stop when buddying with someone wearing a more liberal dive computer.

oc1 dimensions

On repetitive dives, there is no more waiting for the more conservative dive computer to clear. Both buddies will be ready to enter the water at the same time and can continue to dive the same profiles. No penalty is given if the diver skips the deep stop, but it is strongly recommended that a shallow safety stop be made with or without the deep stop in keeping with the experiments of Pilmanis It is important to note that neither algorithm provides deep stops for decompression dives since there is ample experimental data [Blatteau et alGerth et aland Gutvik et al ] that indicate that this practice often produces an increase in the risk of DCS.

DiverLog mac and OceanLog PC are fully functional dive computer management software solutions designed especially for Oceanic. Easily upload and save data recorded by your dive computer, or input your data manually.

oc1 dimensions

The software allows you to easily view, edit and manage dive data and history. JavaScript seem to be disabled in your browser. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Global Website US Website. Home OC1. Contact Us. Available now with metric system.

oc1 dimensions

The debate over a dive computer's algorithm is over.The Ares is cut down in size, and slightly modified in the nose and mid section. Our popular seat and foot well position remains the same to achieve maximum comfort. Our goal with the Ares was to create a smaller design that could run well in all conditions. Upwind, downwind, and flat water. We made a couple of modifications along the way while going through the prototype phase to finished product. The result is the best yet.

In the surf, the Ares is effortless with full control, which is hard to find in smaller designs. The upwind paddling is smooth and consistent, with easy acceleration in the flat sections.

The flat water gets entertaining when surges of ground swell, or residual of back wash, catch the hull and take you for an unexpected glide. We are excited of our gains with the Ares and proudly stand behind our product. You be the judge. Take the Ares out for a spin and let what you feel be your deciding guide. Lighter, stronger, faster. Previous Next. The Ares Pro is available upgrade option. Click link below for more info. Accessories Included. Color codes. Boby Pratt on the Ares. Read more.

Request Information connect with an expert to find a distributor near you or make a custom order.Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by dogfuelSep 14, Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. Length of ama on outrigger canoe? Bear with me I'm just beginning to figure things out Why are the amas on small outrigger canoes so long?

oc1 dimensions

Any thoughts? Not on a canoe - a good canoe is for paddling and should not need an ama Where an "outrigger" is used it is often just a shaped log. The purpose and need for the second hull is clear, just wondering why the need to be long as I've seen on almost all examples. Also seems easier to tack and to right if turtled.

Hi DG. The length of the Ama is often a question of cost in time and materials, certainly for traditional builders. And, as Mas so succinctly put it, how big an arse does it have to support. Some outriggers can be even longer than the main hull. One of the design considerations is which side of the sailing canoe will be leeward, I gotta keep remembering The longer the outrigger, the less drag it will be when "pushed" into the water as a Vaka, but if it is to windward, Ama then that becomes less of an issue.

A long outrigger can make turning more difficult when paddling or sailing as well, so you can have a tradeoff between sailing speed and manouvering. I suppose there would be no problem having two or three sizes that you could mount depending on boat use and weather. Try doing that with a catamaran Are you building at the moment?

Pictures most welcome if so. Good luck with the project. Chris OstlindSep 15, To be effective the outrigger has to carry load. This either provides weight for righting moment or buoyancy for righting moment.

The more it is loaded the better the stability.Hopefully this introduction to one-man outrigger canoeing will explain everything you need to know so you can get out and start enjoying the most amazing sport in the world.

You have to be prepared to spend a lot of time on the water because that is the only way you are going to improve. It will all pay off eventually because once you are competent on a one man, paddling becomes much more than just a way to stay in shape—it will become incredibly fun. However, the ocean is not a friendly place for a stranded paddler, so if even one piece of your equipment either canoe or paddle happens to break you should be prepared.

Since anything can happen out in the ocean it is impossible to prepare yourself enough to ensure your complete safety. Every time you leave the beach you are taking a calculated risk, but your chances of surviving will be extremely high if you are adequately prepared.

Before you begin it is very important that you know how to swim. You will often be a mile or more offshore while paddling, and although hopefully you will never have the need to swim in, if you cannot swim to shore you should definitely not be out there.

Swimming is great cross-training for paddling and could one day save your life; so incorporating it into your training routine would probably be a good idea.

Equipment failure while paddling is hard to prevent, but there are some things you can do to decrease the chances of something breaking and of that break being fatal.

You should inspect your canoe every time before you paddle. Look for any cracks or soft spots in the hull or ama outrigger and make sure that it is rigged securely. But, even if you prepare amazingly well and have a leash, PFD, rope, and signaling device, all of which you should ideally bring with you if you snap your iakos sparsrudder cable, or even your canoe, you will probably not be able to fix the break well enough to make it to shore.

So the most important thing you can do to insure your safety is to not paddle in the ocean alone. Other than a paddling partner, the number one safety device you need for open ocean paddling is a leash. You can attach the leash to your left foot and the front iako.

Other recommended items, though non-essentals are: a signaling device like a mirror or a whistle, a paddle duct-taped to the iakos, a cell phone, and also some boating specific equipment like an EPIRB or a hand held VHF radio and a GPS. Always remember to know the water conditions and your physical limits and take the appropriate safety steps.

Use common sense and you should be all right. Before you can learn to paddle you have to get your canoe to the ocean if you don't live near the ocean or some body of water with big open water waves, be prepared to take multiple vacations to Hawai'i every year. First you need lumber or surf racks on your vehicle, preferably with a span of about 6 feet. Most truck racks work great, but, if you have a tiny car you may want to invest in rack extenders. Saddles, either homemade, Yakima, or Thule, expedite the loading process while providing flex during high speeds or high winds.

Their biggest drawback is that they tend to rub the gel-coat off of the bottom of your canoe. However, this is easily remedied by placing or gluing a pad to the saddles; preferably foam but nearly everything works shirts, car mats etc. Center the canoe on your padded saddles and strap it down by putting the end of the strap through the bottom of the clip on the other side. If you don't have saddles, just make sure your racks are padded.

To strap the canoe down, throw the side without the buckle over the canoe, reach underneath and get the strap around the bar of the rack and back over the canoe. Now you have both sides of the strap on the same side of the canoe, bring the buckle-less side under the rack again and then through the bottom of the buckle. Keep the buckle off of the canoe or make sure any pressure points are padded well. Again tighten firmly without overdoing it, it's very easy to pull a strap too hard and either crack the canoe or make nice little strap indentions on the hull as it heats up.

You might want to put a red flag or something similar on the back of your canoe if it goes more than four feet off of the back of your vehicle. Take the straps off and go to the back of the canoe and slide it back until you reach the seat, then lift the nose off of the car and the canoe should be perfectly balanced with the seat on your shoulder or the hull in the cradle of your arm.

Find a flat grass or sand area to put your canoe down on while making sure that there are no rocks or roots that can scratch or ding your canoe. Hopefully when you bought the canoe they told you how best to rig it. The general basics for all canoes is the more you slide the iakos into the hull, the more tippy it gets, while the more you slide the back iako into the ama, the more stable it gets.

So, since you are just beginning, keep the ama as far out from the canoe as possible, and push the back iako into the ama as far as possible. If you've already been out a few times, you have to start lightening up the ama some when you rig it—remember, the lighter it is the less resistance there will be and the faster you will go.

Eventually you'll be able to show off and paddle with it in the air, but for now, you're going to want to concentrate on learning how to paddle without worrying about huliing. The easiest way is to stand facing towards the stern on the side without the ama.After years of evolution, testing, and iteration, the design team at Kamanu Composites came up with the Pueo.

It's round hull, elongated rocker profile, plumb bow, and reserve buoyancy work together to create inarguably the best all-around canoe in existence. While other canoes may be faster in the flat, or better on a big downwind day, nothing can compete with the Pueo in all conditions.

But, we don't expect you to listen to us. Do your own research, check race results, ask your friends, and, most importantly, call us to get on the demo. The Original Pueo was launched in After four successful seasons and three Moloka'i Solo victories, it was rebuilt from the ground up and re-released in early All the best features were kept, and some subtle new features were added.

Changes include a forward shifted cockpit, slightly increased reserve volume, smoother rocker, a streamlined hull, higher footwell rails, front bungees, a more balanced feel, and an entirely re-designed ama. In we introduced a new hull known as the Pueo X and a forward footwell option for both the Pueo and Pueo X. We now offer four versions that suit different sizes and weights.

Click here for more information on the design process for the new hull. The design of the Pueo is unique in that it's incredibly versatile. It's both efficient in flat water and easy to surf. The canoe is suitable for a wide range of paddlers from lbs to lbs and from 5 feet tall to 6'6".

It almost seems impossible, but it's a design that works for just about anyone in any conditions. While the Pueo is the most versatile canoe that we build, the options below may be more suitable for a narrower range of body types. We have extended the cockpit forward 2. It's recommended for anyone over 6'2" and pounds. The Pueo X is an extended waterline version of the Pueo and is designed to improve performance in all conditions. However, due its reduced rocker profile it is much more sensitive to weight and trim, making it the right choice only for certain sizes and weights.

It is ideal for paddlers under pounds. See the sizing chart below to check if the Pueo X will be good for you. Because the Pueo X is sensitive to trim, and trim can be affected by both height and weight, the forward footwell version of the Pueo X is suitable for a wide range of paddlers-- from 5'7" and pounds, to 6'3" and pounds. It is identical to the Pueo X, but the footwell is moved forward 2.

See the sizing chart below to check if the Pueo X with a forward footwell will be good for you. See available canoes in stock here! When we finish a canoe for sale we can notify you with an email. Subscribe if you are interested! Call us anytimeemail info kamanucomposites. Design Options Pueo The design of the Pueo is unique in that it's incredibly versatile.

Pueo with a forward footwell We have extended the cockpit forward 2.